Surfing isn’t only a sport, it’s a mindset. Everyone feels different feelings while surfing based on experience and knowledge of the sport. Some surfers may find surfing to be therapeutic and calming, or they find it to be intense. Some claim that surfing calms them down because of the silence, fresh air and the adrenaline taking over most emotions and that to them makes them feel at peace, Yet some find it to be intense because of the huge waves, fear of water/ocean.
“I’ve been surfing for five years, and it’s been nothing but therapeutic to me; it has also helped me enjoy the world more, and it weirdly grounds me into feeling like we only live once—and that fact pushes me more and helps me catch more waves,” junior Oscar Esparza said.
As evidenced, surfing can be very therapeutic but can also make someone feel lots of adrenaline.
“The confidence [part] was a huge thing for me to learn—not being scared when you’re alone with seven-foot or four-foot waves,” junior Genivieve Saito said.
One definitely needs to be able to learn how to surf for it to be therapeutic. One can’t just go out into the ocean, because when something is new, it definitely will be more exciting then calming.
Freshman Sophia Kothe explained some quick takeaways to conclude the topic of surfing being calming and therapeutic.
“Yes, because when you get really nice waves it’s just calming to sit there with your toes in the water and listen to the waves crash. Watching the fish swim by and the clear water waiting to catch that perfect wave,” Kothe said.
The quality of surfing is rooted in where one surfs and the water circumstances. You can’t predict how the waves will be when you get there; you have to go and see for yourself.
Junior Genivieve Saito says, “Surfing isn’t just a physical sport, it’s a mindset. ”
